Written by Aleksandra Agranovich
How to Build a Skin Care Routine
Building you own skin care routine may seem challenging, but with all the resources and products that we have available on the market today, it can be done in no time. Taking care of your skin is extremely important, both for your body and your soul. Determining what type of products to use generally depends on your own, individual skin type. The goal of any skin care routine is to make sure that your skin feels right, bright, and healthy. Choosing a skin care routine involves three to five steps that may range from a daily facial cleanser, a moisturizer, a toner, some sunscreen and possibly a serum. So how do you start?
Step 1: Cleanser
Choosing the right cleanser is quite possibly the most important and basic step in any skin care routine. Every day, our skin comes in contact with environmental pollutants, dirt, germs, and Earth’s elements. Washing your face twice a day can help to avoid clogged pores, rid the skin of harsh chemicals, and prevent acne, blackheads, and eczema. Skin cleansers can exist as foaming liquids, creams and lotions, oils, melting balms, and micellar water. The right cleansing formula will clean your skin without stripping it of its essential oils.
Step 2: Moisturizer
Moisturize, moisturize, moisturize. We hear it all the time… But what does this mean exactly and why is it so important?
Moisturizing your skin can rehydrate, soften, and rejuvenate the naturally found ceramides within the skin. As we age, it becomes difficult for our skin to retain moisture in the natural sense. Therefore, the sooner we start using moisturizers, the healthier our skin will feel and look. Moisturizers depend solely on your skin type. Whether you have dry, oily, normal, inflamed or sensitive skin, there is a moisturizer out there that will fit your needs.
Creams that are applied in the morning tend to protect the skin from environmental factors throughout the day. Nighttime creams, on the other hand, are meant to replenish and repair dry skin as a result of cellular turnover and environmental damage.
Step 3: Sunscreen
We’ve all heard of how terrible UV rays can be… and we hate to admit it, but it’s the truth. Skin cancer, due to ultraviolet radiation, is one of the most common forms of cancer in the world. But here’s a fun fact! It is completely and totally preventable. How, you might ask? Sunscreen.
Although it sounds super annoying, dermatologist recommend that we wear sunscreen all year round (yes… even in the winter months). Sunscreen is a crucial skin-care product, despite the fact that it too, is made from chemicals. Using a daily moisturizer with a built-in broad-spectrum SPF of at least 30 is highly recommended. Appling your sunscreen at least thirty minutes prior to sun exposure will prevent skin cancer.
Step 4: Toners and Serums
Toners and serums? Well these guys are optional… It truly depends on how into the whole “daily-skin-care-routine” you are. In the past, toners mainly consisted of alcohol-based products that would dry up the skin and remove dirt particles (which wasn’t very healthy). Today, toners are composed of alpha and beta hydroxy acids, hyaluronic acid, collagen, rose water and green tea extracts, and a variety of vitamins. To tell you the truth though, most of these particles are too large to pass through our skin barrier anyways. Unless you want to take that extra step to look and feel good about your skin, toners are not necessarily that important.
Serums, on the other hand, are composed of concentrated ingredients and work more like elixirs that focus to mitigate dark spots and wrinkles. Serums can be applied daily or nightly, but truth be told, they are very expensive, and you probably won’t see results immediately. Think of it as a preventive “aging” measure.
Example of a Daily Skin Care Routine
Step 1: Cleanser
· CeraVe Foaming/Hydrating Facial Cleaner
Step 2: Moisturizer
· CeraVe daily Moisterizing lotion
Step 3: Sunscreen
· CeraVe Hydrating Mineral Sunscreen SPF 30+
Step 4 (optional): Toner or Serum
· CeraVe Hydrating Toner (removes oil, dirt, makeup, impurities, etc.)
· CeraVe Retinol Serum (reduced fine lines and wrinkles)
**Note: These are just a few examples. There are thousands of products available for different types of skin. It just takes trial and error to find the right ones…
Resources
Molvar, Kari. “How to Build a Skin Care Routine.” The New York Times, The New York Times,
https://www.nytimes.com/guides/tmagazine/skincare-routine
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It is essential to create a daily skin care routine in order to maintain healthy skin. There is several over-the-counter skincare products available to easily design a routine that suits your skin type and addresses your specific concerns. This guide below can help create a daily skin routine:
Understand Your Skin Type: Before selecting products, it is important to understand your skin type (dry, oily, combination, sensitive) and any specific concerns (acne, aging, hyperpigmentation). This knowledge will help you choose products that cater to your skin's needs.
Cleansing: Start your routine with a gentle cleanser suited to your skin type. For dry skin, a hydrating cleanser should be used. For oily skin, a foaming or gel cleanser should be used. Cleansing removes dirt, oil, and impurities, preparing your skin for the next steps.
Exfoliation: An exfoliating scrub should be used 1-2 times a week to slough off dead skin cells. This helps unclog pores, brighten skin, and improve overall texture.
Toning: A toner should be used to balance your skin's pH levels and remove any remaining impurities after cleansing. Look for toners with soothing ingredients like witch hazel or rose water for sensitive skin, or salicylic acid for oily, acne-prone skin.
Serums: Serums are concentrated formulations designed to target specific skin concerns. Choose serums with ingredients like vitamin C for brightening, hyaluronic acid for hydration, or niacinamide for reducing redness and inflammation.
Moisturizing: Regardless of your skin type, moisturizing is essential to keep your skin hydrated and healthy. Choose a moisturizer that suits your skin type—lightweight for oily skin, thicker for dry skin—and contains ingredients like ceramides, glycerin, or hyaluronic acid.
Sun Protection: The most important step in any skincare routine is sun protection. Use a broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of at least 30 daily, even on cloudy days!
Eye Cream: If there are concerns about dark circles, puffiness, or fine lines around the eyes, an eye cream can be added to the routine, looking for ingredients like peptides, hyaluronic acid, or vitamin K.
Spot Treatments: For acne or other skin issues, spot treatments should be considered containing ingredients like benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid. These can help target specific areas without drying out the rest of your skin.
Reference:
https://info.eminenceorganics.com/skin-care-routine
Good skincare is crucial for maintaining the health and appearance of the skin. It serves as a protective barrier against environmental factors such as UV rays, pollution, and harsh weather, which can contribute to premature aging and skin issues. Regular skin care routines aid in the prevention of common problems like acne and dryness by keeping the skin balanced and hydrated. Moreover, skincare involves the application of products that provide essential nutrients, supporting the skin's natural barrier function. Beyond physical benefits, skincare can positively impact mental well-being by boosting confidence and self-esteem. It allows for the targeted treatment of specific skin concerns and contributes to an even skin tone.
Establishing a skincare routine holds significant importance as it ensures a consistent and proactive approach to skin care. This regular regimen plays a key role in preventing common skin issues like acne and dryness by incorporating essential steps such as cleansing, moisturizing, and targeted treatments.. Importantly, a skincare routine can be customized to individual skin types and concerns, addressing specific needs. By consistently caring for the skin, individuals may also experience increased confidence and self-esteem.
Overall, a well-crafted skincare routine serves as a comprehensive strategy for promoting skin health, preventing problems, and embracing a mindful approach to self-care.
In establishing a skincare routine, keep it simple. The most important steps for beginners are cleansing, moisturizing, and protecting the skin with SPF.
Step 1: Cleanser
Finding the perfect cleanser shouldn’t be hard. You should ideally clean your face twice a day, to get rid of all the sweat, dirt, and pollution that is acquired throughout the day. If your skin is dry, you can get away with washing your face with cleanser just at night. The best pick is a gentle hydrating cleanser, packed of ceramides and glycerin, preferably fragrance free.
Step 2: Moisturizer
A moisturizer that is fragrance free and oil free is well tolerated by those with varying skin types.
If you have oily or acne prone skin, moisturizer is not a step that should be skipped. Cleanser will make your skin dry, so the moisturizer will put the moisture back into your skin. Excessive dry skin kicks up oil production. For those worried about oiliness and acne, they should use a non comedogenic moisturizer.
Step 3: Sunscreen
The last step in anyone’s skin care routine should be sunscreen. It is the first line of defense against skin cancer. If you don’t do the other two steps in this routine, remember to protect your skin with SPF. There are many facial spfs on the market for all types of skin.
After mastering these three steps, one can add more products to this routine based on specific skin needs.
References:
https://www.allure.com/story/beginner-skin-care-routine
Creating a personalized skincare routine is an important step toward maintaining healthy and vibrant skin. The process may seem daunting because we live in a world filled with a vast assortment of skincare products, but a skincare routine doesn’t have to be complex. The foundation of a routine typically consists of a few steps, including daily facial cleansing, moisturizing, sunscreen application, and serums.
We’ll start with cleansing. Our skin constantly encounters pollutants and germs making regular cleansing imperative for preventing clogged pores, acne, and other skin issues. Various cleanser formulations, ranging from foaming liquids to creams and oils, cater to different skin needs. You want a product that’s effective in cleansing without stripping the skin of essential oils. I personally use a cleanser made by Cerave that includes salicylic acid which prevents acne. The cleanser also contains ceramides to keep moisture in my skin and not let it dry out.
Following cleansing, moisturizing is a cornerstone in skincare. Regardless of skin type—dry, oily, normal, or sensitive—using the right moisturizer is essential for rehydration and revitalization. For instance, individuals with dry skin may benefit from moisturizers enriched with ingredients such as ceramides, glycerin, and hyaluronic acid. Individuals with oily or combination skin may find that lightweight, oil-free moisturizers better suit their needs. These formulations prioritize hydration without exacerbating oiliness, making them ideal for daytime use, especially under makeup.
Moreover, the emerging trend of incorporating natural and organic ingredients has given rise to moisturizers designed for those with sensitive skin. With ingredients such as cotton extract and aloe, these moisturizers provide a gentle, soothing touch while delivering essential hydration. They are often versatile for both daytime and nighttime applications, catering to the unique needs of sensitive skin.
Sunscreen is an indispensable component of any skincare routine, providing protection against harmful UV rays that can lead to skin cancer and premature aging. Dermatologists advocate year-round sunscreen application, emphasizing the preventive aspect in maintaining skin health. A daily moisturizer with at least SPF 30 is highly recommended.
Serums, with concentrated ingredients, work preventively against issues like dark spots and wrinkles. I use a vitamin C serum to brighten my skin and help with dark spots. Serums with retinol in them can help greatly with wrinkles and I’ve seen great results using retinol in my skincare routine.
Retinol is a derivative of vitamin A and it stands out as a remarkable component in skincare due to its profound anti-aging and skin-renewing properties. Approved by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) as an anti-wrinkle agent, retinol, along with its active metabolites such as retinal, tretinoin, isotretinoin, and alitretinoin are marketed extensively in the skincare world.
Retinol promotes the proliferation of keratinocytes, fibroblasts, melanocytes, and Langerhans cells, leading to strengthened epidermal protective functions and reduced transepidermal water loss. It also inhibits the activity of metalloproteinases responsible for collagen degradation.
Research indicates that retinol stimulates fibroblasts to synthesize collagen fibers, improving skin elasticity and promoting angiogenesis. Additionally, retinol's influence on cellular turnover contributes to smoother skin texture, addressing concerns such as depigmentation, dryness, and fine lines. It also exhibits anti-comedogenic effects, regulating shedding within sebaceous gland ducts.
Incorporating retinol into your skincare routine requires a gradual approach for optimal results. Begin with a lower concentration and use it once or twice a week initially, gradually increasing frequency. Apply a pea-sized amount on dry skin before heavier creams, and always follow up with a moisturizer. Retinol causes increased photosensitivity so it is often used at night and sunscreen should be worn during the day.
In conclusion, a well-designed skincare routine with cleansers, moisturizers, sunscreens, and serums, contributes to a comprehensive strategy for optimal skin health. The journey involves understanding individual skin needs, embracing proven ingredients, and fostering consistency.
References:
Goh CL, Wu Y, Welsh B, Abad-Casintahan MF, Tseng CJ, Sharad J, Jung S, Rojanamatin J, Sitohang IBS, Chan HNK. Expert consensus on holistic skin care routine: Focus on acne, rosacea, atopic dermatitis, and sensitive skin syndrome. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2023 Jan;22(1):45-54.
Rodan K, Fields K, Majewski G, Falla T. Skincare Bootcamp: The Evolving Role of Skincare. Plast Reconstr Surg Glob Open. 2016 Dec 14;4(12 Suppl Anatomy and Safety in Cosmetic Medicine: Cosmetic Bootcamp)
Sander M, Sander M, Burbidge T, Beecker J. The efficacy and safety of sunscreen use for the prevention of skin cancer. CMAJ. 2020 Dec 14;192(50
Zasada M, Budzisz E. Retinoids: active molecules influencing skin structure formation in cosmetic and dermatological treatments. Postepy Dermatol Alergol. 2019 Aug;36(4):392-397
Our skin is a protective barrier from foreign substances and the outside environment of our day-to-day lives. Implementing a skincare routine will preserve the skin's complexion and prevent long-term damage. Cosmetics, age, dietary choices, smoking, and our sleep routine are some examples that affect the quality of our skin and can expose our good and bad habits. Depending on your skin type being dry, oily, and/or combination, the products best suited for you can vary to create an optimal skincare routine. Along with accurate product selection, eating habits or lack thereof impact long-term skin quality.
There are many factors that can build a skincare routine and will need to be adjusted as you age, changes in weather, and lifestyle changes. To simplify, a morning routine should focus on prevention and protection for the day and your nighttime routine should focus on cleansing and repair. Factors such as stress can trigger a negative response in the skin and cause breakouts. Other skin conditions such as eczema, psoriasis, cystic acne, etc. require specific active ingredients to treat the area. New products in your routine should be patch-tested to detect an unwanted reaction.
In your 20s and 30s, adding more steps into your morning and night routine will help preserve the skin's youthful glow and maintain collagen production. It is not necessary to pile on every product all at once because this will cause pilling due to incompatible formulas, too much product or not exfoliating the skin. When in doubt, moisturizing to keep the skin supple and lock in hydration is always recommended.
Morning:
Cleanser: Using a face wash targeted to your skin type will clean dirt, oil, and pollution from the skin. Cetaphil’s gentle skin cleanser is suitable for sensitive and combination oily skin types.
Moisturizer: Treats and prevents dry skin. Thicker moisturizers are recommended in colder climates to prevent water loss in the stratum corneum layer of the skin.
Sunscreen: The leading cause of skin damage and aging is due to the ultraviolet rays of the sun. Sunscreen during the day and wearing protective clothing are encouraged in a skincare routine. Applying a broad-spectrum SPF 30 is a great place to start.
Add-on:
Vitamin C serum: An antioxidant that fights harmful free radicals in the air. Helps slow early signs of skin aging, prevent sun damage, and improve the appearance of wrinkles, dark spots, and acne.
Evening:
Makeup Remover: Micellar water contains particles called, “micelles”, that remove makeup by trapping oil, dirt, and makeup like a sponge. A makeup remover balm with an oil-based formula can also be used to dissolve away the product.
Cleanser: Using a cleanser to target any impurities the makeup remover didn’t get will prevent breakouts from leftover dirt on the skin.
Treat: Based on your skin type, this product varies. For example, acne-prone skin be spot-treated with La-Roche Posay benzoyl peroxide treatment on breakouts.
Moisturizer: A night cream or a gentle moisturizer to help repair the skin overnight is necessary for hydration in the skin.
References:
“Get Started with Altamed.” AltaMed, 1 Mar. 2023, www.altamed.org/article/why-skincare-important.
Neera Nathan, MD, and MD Payal Patel. “Why Is Topical Vitamin C Important for Skin Health?” Harvard Health, 10 Nov. 2021, www.health.harvard.edu/blog/why-is-topical-vitamin-c-important-for-skin-health-202111102635.
Northwestern Medicine. “Do You Really Need a Skin Care Routine?” Northwestern Medicine, www.nm.org/healthbeat/healthy-tips/do-you-really-need-a-skin-care-routine.
Pogored. “A Basic Skin Care Routine for Beginners.” Cleveland Clinic, 22 May 2023, health.clevelandclinic.org/what-products-do-i-actually-need-for-a-simple-everyday-skin-care-routine/.
Creating a daily skin care routine
Yu Feng Lin & Fawziya Twam
In terms of basic skincare needs, an effective skincare routine must emphasize protection, prevention, cleansing, and moisturizing. Daily sunscreen use is recommended, and the most effective active ingredients for sun protection are zinc oxide and avobenzone. Sunscreens undergo rigorous testing for safety and efficacy. Proper cleansing and moisturizing are essential, with different formulations suitable for various skin types.
To achieve a youthful, radiant complexion, a significant factor is exfoliation, either through chemical or physical means. Exfoliation is the process of removing excess corneocyte buildup, which in turn stimulates cell turnover, resulting in a more polished, smoother, translucent surface. Chemical exfoliants include alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) like glycolic and salicylic acid as well as newer polyhydroxy acids and retinaldehyde. Physical exfoliation include topical cleansing scrubs containing a variety of abrasive solid particulates, mechanical facial brushes, sonicating devices, and mildly abrasive cosmetic tools such as microexfoliating rollers. Physical exfoliation induces an immediate desquamation, which in some cases can produce a temporary disruption of the skin barrier, resulting in increased transepidermal water loss.
Aging skin can benefit from retinoids like tretinoin, which stimulate collagen production and improve firmness and elasticity. Nonprescription forms like retinol are available but less potent. Newer forms like retinaldehyde are gentler and effective. Maintaining hydration is vital for redensification, and barrier repair using moisturizers with humectants and barrier molecules is recommended. Sensitive skin requires barrier repair and inflammation reduction. Moisturizers with humectants and barrier-enhancing ingredients like ceramides are beneficial. Avoiding irritants and allergens is crucial. Topical chamomile is mentioned as an anti-inflammatory ingredient. Recommending products with fewer ingredients is advised.
For acne management, over-the-counter (OTC) products with ingredients like salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide, and sulfur are effective for mild to moderate acne. Combination treatments targeting hyperkeratinization, sebum production, bacterial proliferation, and inflammation are recommended. Hydrating, non-irritating products should be chosen for long-term compliance. Hyperpigmentation can be addressed with topical treatments containing hydroquinone and retinoids, along with exfoliation and sun protection. Brightening agents like kojic acid, AHAs, licorice root, and vitamin C derivatives can help maintain an even complexion. Continuous sun protection is essential to prevent pigmentation reoccurrence.
Morning Routine:
Cleansing: Start your day with a mild cleanser to remove impurities and prepare your skin for other products. Choose a gentle, hydrating cleanser.
Moisturizing: Apply a high-quality moisturizer containing ingredients like hyaluronic acid and ceramides. This will help lock in moisture and maintain skin barrier function.
Sunscreen: Apply a broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher sunscreen to protect your skin from UV damage. This step is crucial in preventing premature aging and skin damage.
Evening Routine:
Cleansing: Cleanse your face again using the same mild cleanser to remove makeup, dirt, and pollutants.
Treatment (if needed): If you have specific skin concerns like wrinkles or acne, you can use evidence-based products containing retinoids for anti-aging or topical treatments for acne as prescribed by a dermatologist.
Moisturizing: Apply a night cream or a richer moisturizer with ingredients like niacinamide, peptides, or antioxidants to help repair and rejuvenate your skin while you sleep.
Weekly Routine (1-2 times a week):
Exfoliation: Exfoliate your skin using a gentle chemical exfoliant (alpha or beta hydroxy acids). This helps remove dead skin cells, improve skin texture, and enhance product absorption.
Face Mask: Use a hydrating or clarifying mask, depending on your skin's needs. Look for masks with ingredients like hyaluronic acid, clay, or antioxidants.
Additional Considerations:
Consult a Dermatologist: If you have specific skin concerns or conditions (e.g., severe acne, eczema), consult a dermatologist for personalized recommendations and prescription treatments.
Diet and Hydration: Maintain a balanced diet with plenty of fruits, vegetables, and water. Good nutrition and hydration play a vital role in skin health.
Stay Hydrated: Drinking enough water helps keep your skin hydrated from the inside out.
Avoid Smoking and Excessive Alcohol: These habits can contribute to skin aging and damage.
Manage Stress: High stress levels can impact skin health. Practice stress management techniques like meditation or yoga.
Consistency is key with any skincare routine. Additionally, it's essential to introduce new products gradually to ensure they do not cause irritation or adverse reactions. Tailor your routine based on your specific skin type and concerns, and always patch-test new products before applying them to your face.
References:
Kim S, Ly BK, Ha JH, et al. A consistent skin care regimen leads to objective and subjective improvements in dry human skin: investigator-blinded randomized clinical trial. J Dermatolog Treat. 2022;33(1):300-305. doi:10.1080/09546634.2020.1751037
Rodan K, Fields K, Majewski G, Falla T. Skincare Bootcamp: The Evolving Role of Skincare. Plast Reconstr Surg Glob Open. 2016;4(12 Suppl Anatomy and Safety in Cosmetic Medicine: Cosmetic Bootcamp):e1152. Published 2016 Dec 14. doi:10.1097/GOX.0000000000001152
Daily Skincare Routine Benefits
Our skin is more than just a superficial layer; it serves as a protective barrier against external elements and reflects our overall well-being. Establishing a consistent and personalized skincare routine is not only a beauty regimen, but also a crucial step in maintaining healthy and radiant skin. A well-designed skin care routine acts as a shield against the damaging effects of environmental factors such as pollution, UV radiation, and harsh weather conditions. Regular cleansing and moisturizing help remove impurities and replenish the skin's natural moisture barrier, preventing issues like dryness, irritation, and early signs of aging.
A proactive skin care regimen aids in preventing skin problems before they arise and correcting existing issues. Targeted products containing active ingredients such as antioxidants, retinoids, and hyaluronic acid can address concerns like wrinkles, fine lines, hyperpigmentation, and acne. Consistency is key here; regular application allows these ingredients to work effectively over time. Each person's skin is unique, necessitating a personalized approach to skincare. Creating a routine tailored to your skin type (dry, oily, combination, sensitive) and concerns ensures that you're using products that suit your skin's specific needs. This approach minimizes the risk of adverse reactions and maximizes the benefits of the products you apply.
Consistency yields long-term benefits. A diligent skincare routine encourages cellular turnover, collagen production, and optimal skin function. Over time, this translates to smoother texture, even tone, and a youthful appearance. Neglecting skin care, on the other hand, can lead to premature aging and increased susceptibility to various skin conditions. In addition, healthy skin often translates to boosted self-confidence. When you feel good about your skin's appearance, you're more likely to feel confident in your interactions and activities. A consistent routine involves regular skin examinations. This allows you to detect any changes, such as new moles, spots, or rashes, which could indicate potential skin problems. Early detection is crucial for addressing issues promptly and seeking professional medical advice if necessary. In addition, establishing a skincare routine instills discipline and a habit-forming mindset. This can spill over into other aspects of your life, promoting the development of healthy habits in other areas. While creating a skincare routine at home is valuable, seeking advice from a dermatologist or skin care professional can provide expert guidance. They can recommend products and treatments suited to your unique skin profile and goals.
References:
Goh, L., Wu, Y., Welsh, B., Abad-Casintahan, M. F., Tseng, J., Sharad, J., Jung, S., Rojanamatin, J., S. Sitohang, I. B., & Kingsley Chan, H. N. (2023). Expert consensus on holistic skin care routine: Focus on acne, rosacea, atopic dermatitis, and sensitive skin syndrome. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 22(1), 45-54. https://doi.org/10.1111/jocd.15519
Rodan K, Fields K, Majewski G, Falla T. Skincare Bootcamp: The Evolving Role of Skincare. Plast Reconstr Surg Glob Open. 2016 Dec 14;4(12 Suppl Anatomy and Safety in Cosmetic Medicine: Cosmetic Bootcamp):e1152. doi: 10.1097/GOX.0000000000001152. PMID: 28018771; PMCID: PMC5172479.
Creating a Daily Skincare Routine
There are a variety of skincare routines that exist for dry, combination, or oily skin, which include a plethora of cleansers, moisturizers, toners, serums, sunscreens, eye creams, anti-aging products, the list goes on. The practice of an elaborate, comprehensive skincare routine is oftentimes promoted by the cosmetic industry and heavily advertised via social media platforms regarding its efficacy. However, there exists a lack of clinical evidence in supporting this extensive routine over the use of a single skin care product. This does not go to say that a skincare routine serves no beneficial purpose, but it is important that consumers are aware that when it comes to beauty and cosmetic companies, it is not uncommon that these industries exploit society's insecurities, especially that of women, in order to make profit. Using products that are clinically proven to be safe and effective will help optimize and individualize one’s skincare routine. An effective skincare routine incorporates products that protect the skin barrier, prevent UV damage and premature aging, cleanse the skin from debris buildup and excess sebum, and contain moisturizing properties.
Skincare products are categorized as either cosmetics or FDA-approved actives, which include drugs available as OTC or prescription. According to chapter VI of the 1938 Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetics Act, cosmetics are defined as “articles intended to be applied to the human body for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance without affecting the body’s structure or functions.” It is important to note that cosmetic products and its ingredients do not require FDA premarket approval (the exception is color additives). On the other hand, OTC skincare products are FDA-approved and contain active ingredient(s) that may alter the structure or function of the skin. A youthful, healthy looking complexion is dependent on the conditions of both the epidermis and dermis, the density and quality of the extracellular matrix, cell distribution in the connective tissues, the appearance of cornified cells at the surface of the skin, and the variation in the skin’s natural fluorescence. The skin’s physiology is also impacted by individuals suffering from skin conditions, such as acne, hyperpigmentation, xerosis, and psoriasis. Thus, incorporating OTC products and/or cosmetic products in one’s skincare regimen play a critical role in restoring dermatologic health and appearance.
Cleanser
Selecting the appropriate cleanser depends on the individual’s skin type: dry, combination, or oily. Cleansers serve to remove debris buildup, excess sebum, and in some cases, makeup. There are FDA-approved cleansers that contain active ingredients for the purpose of restoring the skin’s barrier function, however, most cleansers do not. There are a variety of formulas on the market designed for one’s skin type, such as cream, water-based, and gel vehicles. For those with oily complexions, gel-based and bar cleansers are optimal. In contrast, cream or lotion-based ones are preferred in those with normal to dry skin. As stated prior, selection of the best product, in this case –cleanser– involves clinical testing on safety and efficacy.
Moisturizer
Another product that plays a significant role in one’s skincare regimen is moisturizer. Moisturizers contain humectant and occlusive agents. Humectants include hyaluronic acid, urea, and allantoin, which draw water from the environment and the deeper layers of the skin to the outermost layer in order to provide moisture. They are present in the water phase of a formula. Occlusive agents include petrolatum, mineral oil, and lanolin, which act as a barrier to transepidermal water loss and help with moisture retention. They are present in the oil phase of a formula. Lightweight gels, lotions, and serums are oil-in-water formulations and are most suitable for normal to dry skin. Ointments or creams are water-in-oil formulations and are most suitable for very dry skin that needs superior hydration.
Sunscreen
One of the most common skin damages is unprotected ultraviolet (UV) exposure from the sun. Thus, it is recommended that all individuals wear sunscreen daily with the use of agents that contain active ingredients, zinc oxide or avobenzone, since it can block out both ultraviolet A and ultraviolet B. Sunscreen is categorized as OTC drugs and must undergo safety and efficacy testing and meet strict labeling requirements. The mandatory final step of every skincare regimen should be sunscreen. Not only does it prevent sunburns and UV damage, but it also prevents sun-induced premature aging.
Miscellaneous
Exfoliators
Epidermal cell turnover rate slows down with age which leads to the accumulation of dead keratinocytes in the stratum corneum and follicular ostia. As a result, the skin may lose its radiance and appear rough and dry. Current exfoliators available on the market are either chemical or physical. Common chemical exfoliators on the market include glycolic, lactic, and malic acids (known as α-hydroxy acids (AHAs)), and salicylic acid (a β-hydroxy acid). They are available OTC, however higher concentrations require professional administration. To reduce the risk of burning and irritation, concentrations generally range from 7%-10% and a pH above 3.5. Physical exfoliators are available as topical cleansing scrubs containing abrasive solid particulates, mechanical facial brushes, and micro exfoliating rollers. The purpose of either physical or chemical exfoliators is to remove excess corneocyte buildup and stimulate cell turnover, yielding a more radiant and smoother skin surface.
Retinoids
Advanced age may result in wrinkles, loss of elasticity, and changes in skin firmness. Intrinsic aging involves thinning of the epidermis and dermis due to the slowing of keratinocyte and fibroblast replication. Further, there is a decrease in glycosaminoglycans, hyaluronic acid, collagen, and elastin with increased age, thereby resulting in dermal thinning. To mitigate these effects, tretinoin topical prescription therapy, a synthetic form of vitamin A, is used to redensify the extracellular constituents through collagen and glycosaminoglycans upregulation. Its use promotes skin elasticity and firmness and improves photoaged skin through stimulating dermal collagen synthesis and angiogenesis. Expected side effects upon use, however, include pruritus, application site irritation, peeling, and erythema. Nonprescription forms are also available as retinol, but are less potent and less effective.
In conclusion, one of the basic components of a skincare routine should include the selection of an appropriate cleanser, moisturizer, and sunscreen. The product choice is dependent on the individual’s skin type (dry, normal, combination, oily), age, primary skin conditions (if any), skin concerns, and goals. Clinically proven and tested products are the most optimal and reliable in one’s skincare regimen that will maximize dermatologic outcomes.
References
Rodan, Katie, et al. “Skincare Bootcamp: The Evolving Role of Skincare.” Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery. Global Open, 14 Dec. 2016, www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5172479/.
Managing Dry Skin
Written by Aleksandra Agranovich
Dry skin, also known as xerosis, usually occurs when the integumentary system does not retain sufficient moisture. This tends to happen as a result of frequent exposure to water, the use of stripping soaps, aging, or certain medical conditions like eczema and dermatitis. In addition, dry skin may also affect people who live or reside in colder climates (North America/ Europe).
During the winter months, many people who have experienced dermatitis in the past may suffer from rough, flakey, or itchy skin. Cold weather and low humidity can negatively impact the skin barrier. Fortunately, there are many simple and inexpensive things that can be done to relieve dry winter skin. Some dermatologists recommend that patients use humidifiers throughout the colder months to rehydrate the skin surface and restore moisture.
Skin moisturizers, which rehydrate the top layer of skin, are the first step in combating dry skin. They contain three main types of ingredients, some of which include humectants (like ceramides, glycerin, sorbitol, hyaluronic acid, and lecithin). Other ingredients like petroleum jell and mineral oil can help to seal in that moisture within the skin. Emollients, such as linoleic, linolenic, and lauric acids, smooth skin by filling in the spaces between skin cells (Harvard Health).
Moisturizing your skin can rehydrate, soften, and rejuvenate the naturally found ceramides within the skin. As we age, it becomes difficult for our skin to retain moisture in the natural sense. Therefore, the sooner we start using moisturizers, the healthier our skin will feel and look. Moisturizers depend solely on individual skin type. Whether you have dry, oily, normal, inflamed or sensitive skin, there is a moisturizer out there that will suit your needs.
References
Moniaga CS, Tominaga M, Takamori K. Mechanisms and Management of Itch in Dry Skin. Acta Derm Venereol. 2020;100(2):adv00024. doi:10.2340/00015555-3344
Yosipovitch G, Misery L, Proksch E, Metz M, Ständer S, Schmelz M. Skin Barrier Damage and Itch: Review of Mechanisms, Topical Management and Future Directions. Acta Derm Venereol. 2019;99(13):1201-1209. doi:10.2340/00015555-3296
https://www.health.harvard.edu/staying-healthy/9-ways-to-banish-dry-skin