Popular skin products

Salicylic acid is a widely used compound in various skincare products and medications, known for its ability to treat acne, psoriasis, and other skin conditions. Salicylic acid is a type of beta hydroxy acid (BHA) that is derived from willow bark and other plants. It is a colorless, crystalline organic acid that is soluble in alcohol and ether but only slightly soluble in water. Salicylic acid has anti-inflammatory, keratolytic, and antimicrobial properties, making it an effective treatment for a variety of skin conditions.

One of the primary uses of salicylic acid is in the treatment of acne. It works by penetrating the skin and dissolving the dead skin cells and oil that can clog pores, leading to acne breakouts. Salicylic acid is often found in acne cleansers, toners, and spot treatments. Salicylic acid is also used to treat other skin conditions, such as psoriasis, seborrheic dermatitis, and keratosis pilaris. It is effective in these conditions because it helps to soften and loosen dry, scaly skin, allowing it to be shed more easily. In addition to its skincare uses, salicylic acid is also used in medications to treat pain and reduce fever. It is a common ingredient in over-the-counter pain relievers, such as aspirin.

One of the key benefits of salicylic acid is its ability to exfoliate the skin. By dissolving the bonds between dead skin cells, salicylic acid helps to unclog pores and improve the texture and tone of the skin. This can lead to a smoother, clearer complexion. Salicylic acid also has anti-inflammatory properties, which can help reduce redness and swelling associated with acne and other skin conditions. Additionally, its antimicrobial properties make it effective at killing the bacteria that can contribute to acne breakouts.

While salicylic acid is generally considered safe for most people, there are some risks and considerations to be aware of. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions when using products containing salicylic acid. It is important to patch test any new skincare products and discontinue use if you experience any adverse reactions. Salicylic acid can also increase the skin's sensitivity to sunlight, so it is important to use sunscreen when using products containing salicylic acid to protect the skin from sun damage.

Retinoids are derivatives of Vitamin A that were FDA-approved in 1971. Retinoids have been used to treat hyperpigmentation, scarring, wrinkles, acne, and even cancer. They control several transcription factors such as RAR and RXR within the nucleus of cells, regulating epithelial cell growth and the rate of proliferation. Among the available retinoid products, topical tretinoin is the most potent. They actively work to prevent damage by UV rays, aiding in the anti-aging process. The RAR and RXR receptors increase the production of procollagen, blocking the release of inflammatory markers. 

Oftentimes, many physicians and dermatologists prescribe them with topical antibiotics to work synergistically. The products unclog blocked pores, enter the pores, and kill the bacteria causing the acne. Although the use of retinoids shows high rates of efficacy, it is not immediately added to the treatment regimen until step therapy is completed or further evaluation is completed. Patients with psoriasis are usually prescribed tazarotene which is available as a cream or gel to treat plaque psoriasis. Hyperproliferation of the skin cells is limited and inflammation is decreased. Other products used are adapalene, retinol, tretinoin, and bexarotene. Retinol and adapalene are available over-the-counter at reduced strengths in various products. OTC adapalene is available at a 0.1% concentration, whereas prescription adapalene is available at a 0.3% concentration. World-renowned beauty companies have released retinol products that comply with beauty standards even though they are not FDA-approved. FDA approval is not required for cosmetic products and ingredients as long as color additives are not included. Customers can still reap the anti-aging benefits as retinol converts to tretinoin over multiple steps. 

After prolonged or inappropriate usage, topical retinoids contribute to negative side effects such as skin dryness, redness, scaling, and pruritis. More rare side effects include swelling, blistering, and stinging of the skin. Photosensitivity to UV lights occurs, which is why it is essential to educate the patient on sunscreen to limit exposure to UV lights. For acne patients, a flare-up or purge period is expected upon initial usage. Topical retinoids can be used in pregnant patients, however, due to a few reported cases, the benefits must outweigh the risks of harm to the fetus. Oral isotretinoin, previously known as Accutane, treats severe cases of nodular acne. Isotretinoin is only available through the iPLEDGE Risk Evaluation and Mitigation Program (REMS). This program manages the prevention of fetal exposure to teratogenic drugs such as isotretinoin. With an array of available retinoid products, customers and patients can get the medical and cosmetic treatment they are looking for. 

References

1. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/35816071/

2. https://www.medicalnewstoday.com/articles/retinoids#:~:text=Retinoids%20are%20a%20class%20of,in%20immunity%20and%20skin%20health.

3. https://www.aocd.org/page/Retinoidstopical

4. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2699641/

Benzoyl Peroxide

Benzoyl peroxide is a widely used medication in dermatology renowned for its efficacy in the treatment of acne vulgaris, a common skin condition affecting millions worldwide. This compound, consisting of benzoyl group and peroxide, exerts potent antibacterial and keratolytic properties, making it a cornerstone in acne management.

Acne vulgaris arises from multifactorial causes, including excessive sebum production, follicular hyperkeratinization, bacterial proliferation (notably Propionibacterium acnes), and inflammation. Benzoyl peroxide addresses these underlying factors through various mechanisms of action.

Primarily, benzoyl peroxide functions as a potent antimicrobial agent, exerting bactericidal effects by generating free radicals upon contact with the skin. These free radicals penetrate the bacterial cell wall, inducing oxidative damage and ultimately leading to bacterial death. By targeting P. acnes, a key player in acne pathogenesis, benzoyl peroxide helps reduce bacterial colonization within the pilosebaceous unit, thereby mitigating inflammatory responses and preventing acne lesions.

Furthermore, benzoyl peroxide exhibits keratolytic properties, facilitating the removal of excess keratinocytes that contribute to follicular obstruction. By promoting desquamation and preventing the formation of comedones, benzoyl peroxide aids in unclogging pores and preventing the formation of new acne lesions. Additionally, its anti-inflammatory effects help alleviate redness, swelling, and discomfort associated with inflammatory acne lesions.

Benzoyl peroxide is available in various formulations, including gels, creams, lotions, and washes, with concentrations ranging from 2.5% to 10%. Lower concentrations are often recommended initially to minimize skin irritation and dryness, with higher concentrations reserved for more severe cases of acne or treatment-resistant lesions. The choice of formulation depends on individual preferences, skin type, and the severity of acne.

When incorporating benzoyl peroxide into a skincare regimen, it is essential to start with a small amount and gradually increase frequency and concentration to minimize potential side effects such as dryness, irritation, erythema, and peeling. Additionally, it is advisable to use sunscreen during the day and avoid concurrent use of other potentially irritating products to prevent exacerbating skin sensitivity.

Benzoyl peroxide is often used as monotherapy for mild to moderate acne or as part of combination therapy with topical retinoids, antibiotics, or oral medications for more severe cases. Combining benzoyl peroxide with other agents can enhance efficacy, reduce bacterial resistance, and address multiple aspects of acne pathogenesis simultaneously.

Despite its effectiveness, benzoyl peroxide may not be suitable for all individuals. Some may experience allergic reactions or excessive irritation, necessitating discontinuation of use. Additionally, benzoyl peroxide can bleach hair, clothing, and bedding, so caution should be exercised to prevent discoloration.

In conclusion, benzoyl peroxide is a versatile and effective medication widely used in the management of acne vulgaris. Its antibacterial, keratolytic, and anti-inflammatory properties make it a valuable tool in combating acne lesions and improving overall skin health. With proper use and monitoring, benzoyl peroxide can help individuals achieve clearer, healthier skin and regain confidence in their appearance.

Azelaic Acid

Azelaic acid is a versatile skincare ingredient that is becoming popular in everyday use. Azelaic acid is usually available as a cream in prescription form but now many skincare companies are making their formulations at a lower percentage to the prescription form. By making this product readily available, many can reap its benefits. The benefits of azelaic acid are evening tone, reducing irritation, and smoothing rough skin texture. (As I discuss this in-depth, I will be referring to azelaic acid as AZA for convenience) 

AZA stands out as a widely recognized topical treatment for acne. It has been proposed as a potential primary monotherapy for both non-inflammatory and inflammatory acne. Research indicates that AZA exhibits a triple-action impact on acne, encompassing a keratolytic effect, anti-microbial action, and anti-inflammatory properties. This suggests that AZA may effectively address various pathophysiological mechanisms associated with adult female acne. AZA is a great choice for those who do not want to try oral antibiotics or oral contraceptives. By working closely with their patients, dermatologists can create a unique skincare routine involving AZA that will benefit their patient. AZA products blend seamlessly with other skincare products, allowing you to incorporate them into your routine without concerns that the acid might dominate or neutralize the efficacy of other ingredients.

AZA is often compared to Vitamin C for its ability to reduce the appearance of dark spots and uneven skin tone. “Azelaic acid conquers this concern by helping to interrupt an enzyme (tyrosinase) in skin's uppermost layers that would otherwise lead to uneven skin tone and dark spots” (1).  Unlike vitamin C where its effectiveness is reduced by UV rays, AZA is not photosensitive. This allows AZA to be applied day and night, and in the day it should be followed by sunscreen. AZA is a dicarboxylic acid, which allows for mild exfoliating properties.  “Through the usage of its keratolytic abilities, that is, the way that azelaic acid can break down the dead, dull outer layers of skin, it refines skin texture (1)”. Regular application of AZA can lead to a reduction in clogged pores and bumps, promoting a radiant and healthy complexion.

AZA is a skincare ingredient known for its safety, demonstrating broad compatibility with all skin types and generally being well-tolerated, even by individuals with sensitive skin. AZA is beneficial for those with blemished skin, uneven tone, and bumpy texture as the ingredient can reduce the appearance of dark spots and rough texture. AZA is even suitable for those prone to redness and rosacea as it can be used to calm the skin.

While adverse reactions and side effects to AZA are uncommon, it is essential to be mindful of your skin's response. If you notice signs of irritation, consider reducing the frequency of use (such as applying every other day) or discontinuing use. AZA is generally gentle for all ages and ethnicities; however, if you have sensitive, reactive skin or a compromised skin barrier, the introduction of an active ingredient may lead to dryness, flaking, or irritation. Therefore, it is crucial to monitor your skin's reaction when incorporating any new ingredient into your skincare routine.

References:

1. https://www.paulaschoice.com/expert-advice/skincare-advice/ingredient-spotlight/azelaic-acid-for-skin.html

Popular Skin Products: Snail Mucin

Snail mucin, also known as snail secretion filtrate or snail slime, has gained significant popularity in the skincare industry for its numerous benefits on the skin. While it might sound unconventional, snail mucin has been used in traditional medicine for centuries, and in recent years, it has become a key ingredient in various skincare products. Snail mucin is made up of components like hyaluronic acid, allantoin, glycolic acid, and peptides, which have documented benefits for the skin. 

Snail mucin is rich in humectants, such as hyaluronic acid and glycolic acid, which are powerful water-binding agents. When applied to the skin, snail mucin helps attract and retain moisture, keeping the skin hydrated and plump. This hydration effect is beneficial for all skin types, particularly for those with dry or dehydrated skin, as it helps alleviate flakiness and tightness. It also is beneficial in skin repair and regeneration because it contains a potent combination of glycoproteins, peptides, and growth factors. These compounds stimulate the production of collagen and elastin, essential proteins responsible for maintaining skin elasticity and firmness. As a result, snail mucin helps reduce the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and scars, promoting a more youthful complexion. Snail mucin contains allantoin, a compound known for its skin-lightening properties. Regular use of products with snail mucin can help fade dark spots, sunspots, and other forms of hyperpigmentation, resulting in a more even skin tone and a brighter complexion. Another beneficial component of snail mucin is antioxidants including, vitamin E and superoxide dismutase, which help protect the skin from oxidative stress caused by free radicals. By neutralizing these harmful free radicals, snail mucin aids in preventing premature aging and maintaining overall skin health. One of the advantages of snail mucin in skincare is that it is generally non-comedogenic, meaning it is less likely to clog pores and cause acne breakouts.

In addition to the various cosmetic benefits, snail mucin has also been linked to disease benefits. Snail mucin possesses anti-inflammatory properties that help soothe irritated and sensitive skin. This can be particularly beneficial for individuals with conditions like acne, eczema, or rosacea, as it helps calm redness and reduce inflammation. A study done in 2018 showed that snail mucous decreased viability through cleavage of the Poly (ADP-ribose) polymerase (PARP),  and inhibited the metastasis of melanoma cells by blocking integrin function and expression. [2] Another study in 2020 showed that the anti-tumor activity in the melanoma cells was through snail mucin increasing expression of the cytokine TNFα and inhibiting NF-κB. [3] Though there still needs to be more studies done to validate the actual efficacy of it in real-world application in melanoma patients, the possibility of it being used for anti-tumor activity is of growing interest. 

1. Kim, Y., Sim, W., Lee, J., & Lim, T. (2022). Snail mucin is a functional food ingredient for skin. Journal Of Functional Foods, 92, 105053. doi: 10.1016/j.jff.2022.105053 

2. Ellijimi C., Ben Hammouda M., Othman H., Moslah W., Jebali J., Mabrouk H. B., et al. (2018). Helix Aspersa Maxima Mucus Exhibits Antimelanogenic and Antitumoral Effects against Melanoma Cells. Biomed. Pharmacother. 101, 871–880. 10.1016/j.biopha.2018.03.020

3. Premi S. (2020). Role of Melanin Chemiexcitation in Melanoma Progression and Drug Resistance. Front. Oncol. 10. 10.3389/fonc.2020.01305

Olaplex has revolutionized the haircare industry with its claim to repair and protect damaged hair. Olaplex is a hair treatment system that claims to repair and rebuild damaged hair by targeting and reconnecting broken disulfide bonds in the hair shaft. Disulfide bonds are responsible for hair's strength and structure, and they can be compromised by chemical treatments, heat styling, and environmental factors. Olaplex works by introducing a patented ingredient, bis-aminopropyl diglycol dimaleate (often referred to as the Olaplex Bond Building Chemistry), which is claimed to restore and strengthen these bonds.

Olaplex has gained popularity for its ability to repair and restore damaged hair. Studies have shown that Olaplex can significantly reduce hair breakage and improve the overall condition of chemically treated or heat-damaged hair. The treatment aims to rebuild the internal structure of the hair, resulting in improved elasticity, strength, and shine. Olaplex is often used in conjunction with hair color treatments to minimize damage caused by the coloring process. Studies have demonstrated that incorporating Olaplex into hair color treatments can help maintain the integrity of the hair while achieving desired color results. It works by protecting and reinforcing the hair's disulfide bonds during the chemical coloring process, reducing the risk of breakage and preserving the hair's health. Olaplex is believed to strengthen the hair from within, resulting in healthier, more resilient strands. By restoring the integrity of disulfide bonds, Olaplex can enhance the hair's structural integrity, reduce brittleness, and improve overall hair health. This strengthening effect can be particularly beneficial for individuals with damaged or compromised hair.

Several scientific studies have been conducted to evaluate the efficacy and performance of Olaplex. These studies have provided insights into the mechanism of action and benefits of Olaplex for hair health. Here are key findings from notable studies:

1. A Study by Davenport et al. (2017):

This study examined the impact of Olaplex on hair strength and integrity. The researchers found that Olaplex significantly reduced hair breakage and improved tensile strength. The study concluded that Olaplex can effectively repair and restore damaged hair, particularly in cases of chemically treated or heat-damaged hair.

2. A Study by Cho et al. (2018):

This study investigated the effects of Olaplex on hair damage caused by bleaching. The researchers compared the structural and mechanical properties of bleached hair with and without Olaplex treatment. The results showed that Olaplex-treated hair exhibited reduced damage, improved mechanical properties, and enhanced resistance to breakage. The study highlighted the protective and repairing capabilities of Olaplex in the context of hair bleaching.

Olaplex is often used in professional hair salons, and it is essential to have the treatment administered by a trained stylist. Professional application ensures proper product handling and appropriate treatment customization based on individual hair needs. Olaplex offers take-home products for maintenance and ongoing care. These products can help prolong the benefits of in-salon treatments. However, it is important to follow the recommended usage guidelines and consult with a professional for personalized recommendations. While Olaplex has shown promising results in repairing and strengthening damaged hair, individual experiences may vary. Factors such as hair type, extent of damage, and overall hair health can influence the effectiveness of the treatment. It is important to have realistic expectations and understand that results may differ based on individual circumstances.

Olaplex has emerged as a groundbreaking hair treatment system, backed by scientific studies that support its claims of repairing damaged hair and minimizing hair color damage. The patented technology of Olaplex targets and rebuilds broken disulfide bonds, resulting in stronger, healthier hair. While studies have demonstrated the effectiveness of Olaplex, individual variations and proper application should be considered. By understanding the science and studies behind Olaplex and seeking professional advice, individuals can make informed decisions about incorporating Olaplex into their haircare routine for improved hair health and resilience.

References

Testing Results - OLAPLEX Inc.” Olaplex, https://olaplex.com/pages/testing-results.

Popular Skin Products: Tretinoin

There are many topical products that are currently used for the treatment of skin. Skincare routines have become more popular whether it comes to treatment of acne, antiaging, or overall skin health. A major product that gained popularity is tretinoin. This product began to show efficacy in the 1960’s. It became the first retinoid approved for acne by the US Food and Drug Administration. Further, in 1995, tretinoin was approved for wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, and photodamage. The focus for tretinoin has been on reviving aging skin. UV radiation accelerates skin aging greatly by creating reactive oxygen species. Wearing sunscreen and using topical retinoids are useful as preventative measures against damage from the sun.

Tretinoin is a retinoid metabolite derived from Vitamin A. Its exact mechanisms are unknown, but it activates retinoic acid receptors to affect the genes, proteins, and cells of the skin. Tretinoin binds to and activates all three retinoic acid receptors, whereas adapalene and tazarotene only activate two of the receptors. Topical tretinoin helps to clear acne, increase cell turnover, stimulate the formation of collagen, inhibit collagen degradation, and inhibit enzymes that can break down the skin. Tretinoin is approved for acne, hyperpigmentation, and wrinkles.

It is believed that the mechanism of tretinoin in treating acne is the ability to reduce horny-cell adhesion, increase cell turnover, and increase mitosis. Common side effects of topical tretinoin for acne are dry skin, peeling skin, burning, and erythema. Tretinoin can be used in combination with clindamycin and benzoyl peroxide. It is advised for women to avoid the use of topical tretinoin during pregnancy.

There are other retinoids that are also used to treat skin conditions. Isotretinoin is approved for the treatment of acne in capsule form. Studies demonstrated that there was improvement in the appearance of the skin, but there was also lots of irritation associated with it. There have been nanoformulations developed to avoid the irritative side effects, but further studies are necessary. Retinol is another vitamin A derivative that can help produce hyaluronic acid, collagen, and elastin in the skin. Although, it is tenfold less potent than tretinoin. Studies show that a combination of retinol and retinyl esters may have an effect that is comparable to antiaging of tretinoin. Tazarotene is a selective third generation retinoid approved for topical treatment of psoriasis and acne. Its effects are comparable to that of tretinoin with a higher price point. Adapalene is another selective third generation retinoid used to treat acne and used off label for aging. Retinol and retinaldehyde can be found in cosmeceuticals which are not regulated the same as medicines. They are not tested for safety, quality, and efficacy the way that tretinoin, adapalene, and tazarotene are. This makes it difficult to make clinical decisions between other retinoids in comparison to tretinoin. There is a need for further studies to be done for comparison of tretinoin with conventional products and nanoformulations.

Aging is a natural process that is enhanced extrinsically by UV rays from the sun. tretinoin can slow this process down while also combatting other skin conditions. Further studies are required between tretinoin and other retinoid compounds to compare efficacy. Additionally, tretinoin is being further researched for its use in other conditions.

Resources:

Baldwin, H. E., Nighland, M., Kendall, C., Mays, D. A., Grossman, R., & Newburger, J. (2013). 40 years of topical tretinoin use in review. Journal of drugs in dermatology : JDD, 12(6), 638–642.

Milosheska D, Roškar R. Use of Retinoids in Topical Antiaging Treatments: A Focused Review of Clinical Evidence for Conventional and Nanoformulations. Adv Ther. 2022 Dec;39(12):5351-5375. doi: 10.1007/s12325-022-02319-7. Epub 2022 Oct 11. PMID: 36220974; PMCID: PMC9618501.

Written by Aleksandra Agranovich

New Skin Medications on the Market

Vtama (Tapinarof) Cream 1%: This medication is FDA approved for the treatment of plaque psoriasis in adults. Plaque Psoriasis is a chronic inflammatory skin condition that causes patches of red, inflamed, scaley skin. Vtama is a steroid-free medication and is safe to use for regular or long-term treatment. Some common side effects of Vtama may include folliculitis, allergic reaction, and rash or irritation.

Winlvi (clascoterone) Cream 1%: This medication is FDA approved for the treatment of acne vulgaris in patients 12 years or older. Acne Vulgaris is a common skin condition that occurs as a result of hormone production during puberty/adolescence. Winlevi binds to androgen receptors and reduces sebum production to prevent pimples from forming. The most common side effects of Winlevi may include reddening, rash, scaling, and dryness of the skin.

Opzelura (Ruxolitinib) Cream 1.5%: This medication is FDA approved for the treatment of mild to moderate eczema and nonsegmental vitiligo in patients 12 years or older. Opzelura is a JAK Kinase inhibitor that targets cytokines involved in inflammation. The most common side effects of this medication may include the common cold, bronchitis, ear infections, and hives. Some of the more serious side effects of Opzelura may include reduced ability to fight infection, tuberculosis, blood clots, and cancer.

Retinoid Therapy

Topical retinoids such as isotretinoin, adapalene, and tretinoin are commonly used in dermatology to treat various types of skin conditions. Retinoids are indicated for the treatment of acne vulgaris, psoriasis, photoaging, cutaneous T-cell lymphoma, and Kaposi’s sarcoma. These medications bind to and activate retinoic acid receptors to proliferate and differentiate cell growth (Cutan,2022). In addition, retinoids may also be used (off-label) for keratosis pilaris and hyperpigmentation. From a pharmacological standpoint, retinoid molecules are derived from Vitamin A and have a very similar structure. Retinoid molecules are fat soluble and can easily penetrate the skin barrier. The administration of retinoid therapy is contraindicated for woman who are pregnant or are planning to become pregnant. This is a major safety concern because retinoids act directly on the embryo and could cause birth defects. Some common side effects that may result from the use of retinoid therapy include burning and itching of the skin, redness, dryness, and hyperpigmentation.

Resources

Motamedi M, Chehade A, Sanghera R, Grewal P. A Clinician's Guide to Topical Retinoids. J Cutan Med Surg. 2022;26(1):71-78. doi:10.1177/12034754211035091

https://www.winlevi.com/?utm_source=Google&utm_medium=PaidSearch-CPC&utm_campaign=BND_OVP_Decision_Core_ALL_11.2.2022&utm_term=winlevi&utm_content=Core_EXM&gclid=Cj0KCQiA2-2eBhClARIsAGLQ2RkmONg4E4-vi_y5ghatewgowfXQcLOZtvX67ZW0rf8SgKdQJOvlrTUaAtSLEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

https://in.rxengage.app/flow?pageId=e2827b97-68c5-419a-b9ba-c1bcef64f71b

https://www.opzelura.com/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=OPZ-DTC_Branded_Opzelura_Phrase__%3BS%3BPH%3BBR%3BDRM%3BDTC%3BBR&utm_content=General_P&utm_term=opzelura&gclsrc=aw.ds&&gclid=Cj0KCQiA2-2eBhClARIsAGLQ2Rl2dP8UPvc5o4pOByjWCrXs3WK11o9IpcFlJyH_fIpnGdcsaqJHiEIaAvqUEALw_wcB

Written by Justin Ayob and Antonio Ortega Hyaluronic Acid in Wound Healing Hyaluronic acid is a polysaccharide that abundantly exists in the synovial fluid as a high molecular mass surrounding joints, cartilage, and tissues of the eye and skin. Hyaluronic acid’s physicochemical properties such as biodegradability, biocompatibility, nontoxicity, and non-immunogenicity makes it a versatile therapeutic agent in biomedical applications. A powerful antioxidant, hyaluronic acid is most used for its ability to bond water to tissue. Hyaluronic acid jellies at concentrations of 2% and 4% have been proven to have a protective dose-dependent effect on skin cells exposed to ethanol. Hyaluronic acid prevents apoptosis (mediated by decreased inflammation) and as a result protects against ethanol-induced cytotoxicity. Inability of highly viscous gel concentrations at 8% to penetrate skin cells did not provide ethanol-exposed cells protection against toxicity. Hyaluronic acid was studied in animal models for its wound healing potential in two full-thickness surgical wound models and was found to facilitate re-epithelialization, lead to the formation of soft tissue with good elasticity and increase microvascular density. Hyaluronic acid also showed promising results for connective tissue repair for tendon and cartilage repair in two rabbit models. Hyaluronic acid treatments have improved wound healing, satisfactory aesthetic results, and optimal recovery of affected areas without intervening with functionality of affected area in patients. Hyaluronic acid has been widely used as a therapeutic agent for a variety of applications including osteoarthritis, ophthalmic surgery, cosmetic applications and even tissue engineering. Whether through intradermal injections or topical applications, hyaluronic acid has been proven to be a safe and efficacious agent in facilitating skin repair for patients. References:

· Neuman, Manuela G et al. “Hyaluronic acid and wound healing.” Journal of pharmacy & pharmaceutical sciences : a publication of the Canadian Society for Pharmaceutical Sciences, Societe canadienne des sciences pharmaceutiques vol. 18,1 (2015): 53-60. doi:10.18433/j3k89d

· Sudha, Prasad N, and Maximas H Rose. “Beneficial effects of hyaluronic acid.” Advances in food and nutrition research vol. 72 (2014): 137-176. doi:10.1016/B978-0-12-800269-8.00009-9

Salicylic Acid - Chemical Peels Chemical peeling is controlled chemical injury to the skin using a chemical peeling agent that causes exfoliation of superficial layers of the skin which leads to the removal of superficial lesions. This leads to regeneration of new epidermal and dermal tissues which prompts the rejuvenation of smoother skin and an improved surface texture. Chemical peels can be divided into three categories based on their level of injury to the skin, i.e., superficial, medium-depth, and deep. Salicylic acid’s ability to exfoliate the stratum corneum has made it a useful peeling agent. Its ability to inhibit the formation of comedones make it particularly useful in patients with acne, but has indications as a peeling agent for melasma, photodamage, freckles and lentigines as well. Contraindications for salicylic acid include contact allergy to salicylates, active dermatitis at the peeling site, active infection, use of isotretinoin during the 3-6 month peeling procedure and pregnancy as salicylic acid is classified as a pregnancy category C drug by the US Food and Drug Administration. Standard practice for chemical peeling with salicylic acid involves a 20-30% salicylic acid formulation in an ethanol base. The peels are repeated every 2–4 weeks. Peak results are visible after 3–6 chemical peels varying on the severity of the condition being treated and the patient’s skin type. Salicylic acid is absorbed readily when applied topically to the skin and its absorption can be increased topically when combined with a hydrophilic base or kept under occlusion. In high concentrations, salicylates are toxic to the central nervous system and toxicity can present clinically as nausea, vomiting, dizziness, psychosis, stupor, and consequently coma and death. According to Fung et al who’s study concluded that the relative bioavailability of a salicylic acid skin peep preparation that uses a max formulation of 30% salicylic acid should not pose any significant risks to the systemic health in patients making salicylic acid a safe and useful treatment option as a chemical peel for patients. References

· Lee, Kachiu C et al. “Basic chemical peeling: Superficial and medium-depth peels.” Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology vol. 81,2 (2019): 313-324. doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2018.10.079

· Arif T. Salicylic acid as a peeling agent: a comprehensive review. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2015 Aug 26;8:455-61. doi: 10.2147/CCID.S84765. PMID: 26347269; PMCID: PMC4554394.

· Fung W, Orak D, Re TA, Haughey DB. Relative bioavailability of salicylic acid following dermal application of a 30% salicylic acid skin peel preparation. J Pharm Sci. 2008;97:1325–1328

Acetylglucosamine

N-AcetylGlucosamine is a monosaccharide that usually polymerizes linearly through (1,4)-β-linkage. It’s the monomeric unit of the polymer chitin and a basic unit of hyaluronic acid and keratin sulfate on the skin's surface. N-acetylglucosamine functions as an anti-aging skincare product because of its ability to replenish hyaluronic acid. Hyaluronic acid is a key molecule for skin hydration, having an ability to hold 1,000 times its weight in water. The skin remains youthful because of the abundance in hyaluronic acid and high water content.

According to the Journal Dermatoendocrinology, the most dramatic histochemical change in aging skin is the disappearance of hyaluronic acid. Hyaluronic acid is a valuable ingredient in cosmetics, but the molecule weight is too big, making it unable to penetrate the skin effectively. That’s why acetylglucosamine comes in as a building block of hyaluronic acid to penetrate the skin and replenish hyaluronic acid in aging skin. This would increase the water content in the skin and result in a smooth, plump complexion. A study published by the Journal of Cosmetic Science evaluated the effects of acetylglucosamine and topical treatments showed the increase in skin moisturization and decreased in skin flakiness.

Hyaluronic acid has also been linked to having a protective effect on collagen synthesis. Elevated levels of degraded collagen and reduced collagen synthesis is known to cause signs of skin again. By replenishing the hyaluronic acid, acetylglucosamine could indirectly help to protect collagen synthesis. Acetylglucosamine has also shown to reduce the appearance of facial hyperpigmentation by reducing the production of melanin, in a recent research article.

References:

• Anti-aging: Why you should look out for acetyl glucosamine. The Dermatology Review. https://thedermreview.com/acetyl-glucosamine/. Published October 6, 2021. Accessed April 1, 2022.

• Chen J-K, Shen C-R, Liu C-L. N-acetylglucosamine: Production and applications. Marine drugs. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2953398/. Published September 15, 2010. Accessed April 1, 2022.

Carrot Seed Oil

Carrot oil is an essential oil that has started becoming a favorite in skincare. Carrots are rich in beta-carotene, the substance that gives them their orange color, but it has an entirely different effect on the skin. Carrot seed oil has become known for its antibacterial, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory properties. If the oil has been extracted for skincare, it’s not meant for use internally and should only be used topically

Carrot extract is rich in the beta carotene, which are the antioxidants that are vital in fending off skin-damaging free radicals that are from the environment. Carrot extract also increases cell turnover, as a 2004 study showed that beta-carotene acts as a precursor to vitamin A, the vitamin responsible for cell regeneration, when it’s applied topically. The increased skin turnover would bring the younger, healthier skin cells to the surface. There are also anecdotal reports that indicate that carrot seed oil has anti-inflammatory properties and is soothing to the skin and scalp.

Research suggests that carotol, another compound in carrot seed oil, may reduce the activity of fungi that affect plant growth. There has also been another study that indicates carrot seed oil to have some degree of effectiveness against yeasts. A recent study has also shown that it is effective in combating several strains of bacteria, including listeria monocytogenes and staphylococcus aureus. This gives promising potential as an antibacterial and antifungal agent, but also beneficial for hard to treat infections and for wound care.

It is advised to dilute carrot seed oil with a carrier oil before applying to the skin or scalp. Putting too much carrot extract on the skin may cause that orange tinge on the skin. Most beauty formulations contain only a small percentage of carrot seed oil and typically used once a day, at night. Beta-carotene can easily oxidize and cause skin discoloration and irritation.

References:

• Whelan, C. (2019, October 25). The benefits of Carrot Seed Essential Oil. Healthline. Retrieved March 31, 2022, from https://www.healthline.com/health/carrot-seed-oil#risks

• Peter, S., & Hanson, C. (2022, March 26). Could carrots be the answer to all your glowy-skin dreams? Byrdie. Retrieved March 31, 2022, from https://www.byrdie.com/carrot-skincare

Honey

Honey has been increasing in popularity in the skincare and beauty industry. In its natural form, honey is produced by enzyme activity, plant matter, and live bacteria coming together. The process of creating honey makes it valuable for cosmetic uses, such as clearing acne, healing scars, and evening out skin tone.

Raw honey is backed with components beneficial for the skin, especially for acne or autoimmune skin conditions, like eczema or psoriasis. It helps acne by balancing the bacteria on the skin. Manuka honey has been studied in 2016 as an anti-acne product and is found to be significantly more effective than only using antibacterial soap to treat acne.. Honey speeds up the skin cells’ healing processes and reduces inflammation. It’s unclear how much honey is needed to apply to the skin to treat acne, but it’s possible that applying a small amount of honey to affected areas may help with clearing up acne breakouts.

Eczema is another condition that was studied. In 2017, a small study found that manuka honey helped to reduce the size of eczema lesions on the skin. The study, however, only had 14 participants and calls for large clinical trials to prove that honey can help with eczema. It’s unclear whether regular honey would be effective if used to relieve symptoms of eczema. Psoriasis can also be treated with honey, as a 2014 study showed the effect of medical-grade kanuka honey on psoriasis. The small study showed that kanuka honey was just as effective as aqueous cream in managing psoriasis lesions, but this also requires a larger study to confirm the effectiveness of honey.

If a person is allergic to pollen, celery, or other bee-related products, they should steer clear of using honey on the skin.

References:

• MediLexicon International. (n.d.). Honey for face: Benefits, recipes, risks, and more. Medical News Today. Retrieved March 30, 2022, from https://www.medicalnewstoday.com/articles/honey-for-face

• Watson, K. (2019, January 4). Honey for face: Uses and benefits. Healthline. Retrieved March 30, 2022, from https://www.healthline.com/health/honey-for-face#outlook

Squalene

Squalene is a polyunsaturated hydrocarbon found in certain fish oils, especially shark liver oil, in high amounts and some vegetable oils in smaller amounts. Human sebum contains 13% squalene as one of its major constituents. Squalane is a saturated derivative of squalene and also found in these sources. There has been an interest in squalene after its characterization in shark liver oil because of its use as a traditional medicine for decades. Several studies exhibited results that antioxidant, drug carrier, detoxifier, skin hydrating, and emollient activities of these substances has been reported both in animal models and in vitro environments.

Animal and plant squalene is too unstable to be used in skin care products because it becomes rancid and spoils quickly when exposed to oxygen. Before it can be used in skin care products, squalene must be hydrogenated into squalane, which is a stable form. Hydrogenation converts the squalene from an unsaturated oil to a saturated oil, squalane, and makes the oil more skin-friendly and helps increase shelf life.

Hydrated skin is healthy skin, so squalane has a lot of benefits. By boosting hydration, the skin can appear more vibrant and healthier. The antioxidants in the oils and creams also fight skin damage and free radicals, which can accelerate the aging process. Regular use can also boost collagen production, resulting in firmer skin. For acne-prone or oily skin, squalane is a good alternative for heavy or greasy oils. It’s lightweight and noncomedogenic, not clogging pores. It does penetrate pores and improve skin at the cellular level, but does not feel heavy. It also has anti-inflammatory properties that can reduce redness and swelling.

References:

• Higuera, V. (2020, October 12). What is Squalane and what are its benefits for skin and hair? Healthline. Retrieved March 28, 2022, from https://www.healthline.com/health/squalane#for-acne-or-oily-skin

• F;, K. S. K. K. (n.d.). Biological importance and applications of squalene and Squalane. Advances in food and nutrition research. Retrieved March 28, 2022, from https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/22361190/

Centella asiatica is a medicinal herb that has been used as a panacea three thousand years ago in China, India, Africa, Philippines, Sri Lanka, and Madagascar. In traditional Asian medicine, the herb C. asiatica has been used for hundreds of years to improve small wounds, scratches, burns, hypertrophic wounds healing, and as an anti-inflammatory agent. It is also used as an antipyretic, diuretic, rheumatic, antibacterial, antiviral drug, treatment of vein insufficiency and for improving cognition, relieving anxiety, and as an anti-cancer agent.

C. asiatica contains triterpenoid saponins known as centelloids. The active compounds include pentacyclic triterpenes, mainly asiaticoside, madecassoside, asiatic and madecassic acids. Centella asiatica works by promoting fibroblast proliferation and increasing the synthesis of collagen as well as acidic mucopolysaccharides, increasing intracellular fibronectin content and mitotic activity in the germ layer, which improves the tensile strength of newly formed skin, which is also by inhibiting the inflammatory phase of hypertrophic scars and keloids.

In cosmetology, centella asiatica has been used as an effective anti-photoaging agent, mainly due to enhancement of type I collagen, which decreases in the skin with age. The action was confirmed in a randomized, double blind clinical trial conducted among 20 female participants with photoaged skin to examine the impact of 0.1% madecassoside with 5% vitamin C on the skin. Six month treatment resulted in a significant improvement in firmness, elasticity, and skin hydration. It is considered that centella asiatica’s beneficial effects come from madecassoside, a known inducer of collagen expression by activating the SMAD signaling pathway. Previous studies also confirmed beneficial effects of 5% vitamin C on photoaged skin, that resulted from stimulation of collagen synthesis in fibroblasts and control of matrix metalloproteinase enzymes responsible for degradation of collagen. Vitamin C and madecassoside creates a synergistic effect, causing the remodeling of the superficial dermis.

Centella asiatica is also confirmed to have an influence on increasing the metabolism of lysine and proline, the amino acids building the collagen molecules. In addition, the compounds increased the synthesis of tropocollagen, and mucopolysaccharides in the connective tissues. Results that were obtained showed the impact of centella asiatica on improving nutrition of tissues and connective vascular simulations. There was also a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled trial of the cream trofolastin, which is an extract with C. asiatica, 𝛂-tocopherol, hydrolyzed collagen, and elastin, carried out on 100 pregnant women. Half of them received a placebo and the other half had the trofolastin cream. The test lasted 30 months, which was carried through by 80 women (39 in the placebo group and 41 in the trofolastin group), and the results indicated that the striae occurred in 56% of the women in the placebo group and only 14 women had it in the trofolastin group.

In recommended doses, centella asiatica is not toxic and possible side effects are rare. Although it may cause local allergic reactions and burning, especially when used externally and subcutaneously. Skin problems such as eczema on the fingers and hands after external use for a period of 3 months and a vesicular reaction with pruritus after 20 days of applications were also observed.

References:

• ​​Bylka, W., Znajdek-Awiżeń, P., Studzińska-Sroka, E., & Brzezińska, M. (2013, February). Centella Asiatica in Cosmetology. Postepy dermatologii i alergologii. Retrieved March 25, 2022, from https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3834700/

• Gohil, K. J., Patel, J. A., & Gajjar, A. K. (2010, September). Pharmacological review on Centella Asiatica: A potential herbal cure-all. Indian journal of pharmaceutical sciences. Retrieved March 25, 2022, from https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3116297/

Peptides are naturally occurring in the skin, but they are also in many skin care products. Peptides are amino acids that make up certain proteins needed by the skin. Collagen, for example, is made of three polypeptide chains, so adding peptides can stimulate your skin to make more collagen, leading to firmer, younger-looking skin. Collagen is naturally produced, but over time, collagen production decreases, which can cause the skin to look more wrinkled and less even and bright. Collagen is too large to be absorbed through the skin, which is why many people choose to eat collagen-rich foods or take collagen supplements, but peptides can be absorbed into the skin to be used by the body, hence incorporating peptides into skincare has many benefits for the skin.

With the growth of people’s knowledge on cosmeceuticals, the production of bioactive peptides with natural resources cannot meet the increasing demand of the people. Some researchers use biotechnology to synthesize bioactive peptides to increase the production efficiency and to remedy the disadvantages of poor stability and low skin permeability with peptide structure modification, adjusting the molecular weight of the peptide, or derivatization methods.

Overtime, skin goes through the process of aging which will become dry, lack elasticity, and lines and wrinkles will appear. The mechanism of skin aging can be divided into internal aging and external aging. Internal aging is due to the changes in cell metabolism, hormones, and metabolic processes, resulting in the decrease in elastin, collagen, fibroblasts, hyaluronic acid, and other substances in the skin. External aging is mainly caused by long-term illumination without protection. Other factors like heredity, malnutrition, pollution, diseases, and sub-health lifestyles also play a part in both external and internal aging. Bioactive peptides play important roles as an enzyme inhibitor, for example reducing collagenase and gelatinase activity, signal cascade tigger, which can stimulate the proliferation of collagen, elastin, proteoglycans, and glycosaminoglycans, inhibitor of transmission of neurotransmitters and enhance the muscle contraction and reduce common signs of again, such as wrinkles, and as a carrier to deliver or stabilize trace elements and contribute to wound healing.

Different sources of collagen peptides have different effects on anti-skin aging. It was found that type 1 collagen-derived collagen peptide can stimulate the synthesis of procollagen I, elastin, and fibrin in the skin, increase the synthesis of dermal matrix, and reduce the generation of eye wrinkles by ingesting collagen peptide derived from pig collagen I. Chicken-derived collagen peptide has significant effects on inflammatory changes, oxidative stress, collagen I synthesis, and cell proliferation. Overall, peptides are shown to improve the skin barrier, reduce wrinkles, provide more elastic skin, ease inflammation, and can help clear breakouts.

There are so many products on the market containing peptides, but it’s best to choose a serum or moisturizer that has prolonged contact with the skin. Peptides are often marketed as a miracle cure, but it’s often very expensive, not the most scientifically backed ingredient, and there are many different kinds of peptides, and some won’t have any effect on the skin.

References:

• Zhao, X., Zhang, X., & Liu, D. (2021, August 11). Collagen peptides and the related synthetic peptides: A review on improving skin health. Journal of Functional Foods. Retrieved March 18, 2022, from https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S1756464621003297

• Gallagher, G. (2020, June 12). Peptides for skin: Benefits, what to look for & side effects. Healthline. Retrieved March 18, 2022, from https://www.healthline.com/health/peptides-for-skin

Topical Vitamin C

Topical vitamin C is a dermatologist-favorite ingredient that helps slow early skin aging, prevent sun damage, and improve the appearance of wrinkles, dark spots, and acne. Vitamin C is an antioxidant that fights harmful free radicals (toxins) that come in contact with the skin from external sources like air pollution, smoking, solar radiation or from inside the body as a result of normal processes like metabolism. Free radicals can damage the skin and topical vitamin C can combate free radicals to improve the skin’s overall appearance. Although vitamin C can be obtained in a person’s diet, there’s no way to guarantee it goes to the skin. Using serums and other topical products is the most direct way to get those benefits.

Vitamin C has an excellent safety profile and most people can use topical vitamin C for extended periods of time without any adverse reaction. In rare cases, people with hypersensitive skin may experience minor irritation. It also brightens and impedes melanin production, which can help fade hyperpigmentation and smooth the skin's surface to reduce dullness, giving the skin a youthful glow. Vitamin C inhibits melanin synthesis by downregulating the activity of the enzyme tyrosinase. It interacts with the copper ions at tyrosinase-active sites and inhibits the action of tyrosinase, which is responsible for the conversion of tyrosine to melanin. A clinical study examining the effect of a topical formulation containing 25% vitamin C and a chemical penetration enhancer reported a significant decrease in pigmentation caused by melasma after 16 weeks, but vitamin C effects may not be as effective as other topical products containing hydroquinone.

Serums can help smooth out fine lines by plumping and hydrating the under-eye area. Some people say it can help alleviate discoloration associated with under-eye circles. According to a small study, vitamin C in the form of 10% sodium ascorbate was found to improve dark circles of the lower eyelid after 6 months of use by thickening the eyelid dermis and concealing dark coloration due to congested blood. Vitamin C has also been shown to act as an anti-inflammatory agent through its antioxidant capacity, reducing redness and puffiness.

Collagen is a natural protein that depletes over time and low levels of collagen can lead to fine lines and wrinkles. Vitamin C is known to boost collagen production through collagen synthesis because it is the essential cofactor for the two enzymes required for collagen synthesis, prolyl hydroxylase, which stabilizes the collagen molecule, and lysyl hydroxylase, which provides structural strength. Collagen production is tied to skin elasticity and firmness, and the boost of collagen production from a vitamin C serum can result in an overall tightening effect, which can help reduce the appearance of sagging skin, making the skin look firmer and more toned. Vitamin C is also known to be the primary replenisher of vitamin E, which has a role in protecting cell membranes against oxidative stress and maintaining the collagen network in the skin.

Vitamin C is one of the most powerful antioxidants in the skin. Its clinical application ranges from antiaging to anti-pigmentation and has an excellent safety profile, making it a popular cosmeceutical agent.

References:

• Doyle, A. (2021, November 15). 11 reasons to use a vitamin C serum. Healthline. Retrieved March 16, 2022, from https://www.healthline.com/health/beauty-skin-care/vitamin-c-serum-benefits#how-to-use

• Neera Nathan, M. D., & Payal Patel, M. D. (2021, November 10). Why is topical vitamin C important for skin health?Harvard Health. Retrieved March 16, 2022, from https://www.health.harvard.edu/blog/why-is-topical-vitamin-c-important-for-skin-health-202111102635

• Al-Niaimi, F., & Chiang, N. Y. Z. (2017, July). Topical vitamin C and the skin: Mechanisms of action and clinical applications. The Journal of clinical and aesthetic dermatology. Retrieved March 16, 2022, from https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5605218/

Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate

The luxurious Japanese skincare brand SK-II’s, famed Pitera essence’s primary ingredient is galactomyces ferment filtrate, a nutrient dense yeast extract derived from a controlled natural fermentation product typically from making sake. It’s simply the filtrate of the fermentation of a food substrate by the galactomyces microorganisms. During fermentation, the galactomyces yeast break down natural ingredients that they have been added to, making new compounds that are beneficial for the skin such as amino acids, organic acids, and antioxidants.

Fermented ingredients have become increasingly popular in Korean skincare products but they have not been thoroughly researched like some other skincare ingredients, however there is peer-reviewed research available. There are 4 main benefits that fermented ingredients have for the skin. Vitamins and antioxidants created by the fermentation process helps to strengthen the skin’s moisture barrier, keeping the skin hydrated and prevents water-loss as well as helping to prevent damage from environmental stresses from occurring. There are also amino acids, organic acids, and antioxidants that are created during fermentation to help nourish and hydrate the skin. The fermentation process also helps the skin absorb nutrients more easily and quickly as active ingredients are broken down into smaller parts by the microorganisms. There’s a study that compared the anti-aging efficacy of red ginseng and fermented red ginseng in the treatment of wrinkles, and it was found that fermented red ginseng had an increased efficacy in anti-wrinkle and skin brightening. Lastly, there’s a decreased likelihood of skin irritation because of the anti-inflammatory and antioxidant substances, such as flavonoids, that are created during fermentation.

Galactomyces is like an all-in-one ingredient that can do everything, such as improving the appearance of pores, strengthening the skin barrier, helping to control sebum production, and improving acne, pigmentation, and overall radiance. Galactomyces can help with hyperpigmentation caused by the melanocytes in the cells of the skin because of its ability to decrease the production of melanin. In an in vitro study, melanin in human melanocytes were reduced by 35% when treated with 5% of galactomyces ferment filtrate and reduced by 55% when treated with 10% of galactomyces ferment filtrate, both over a period of 25 days. It’s also shown to strengthen the skin’s barrier by upregulating the differentiation of keratinocytes and activating the aryl hydrocarbon receptor (ahR), which helps protect the skin from water loss and IV damage. There’s also the benefit of reduction of enlarged open pores and black heads by 15% and 21%, respectively, with 97% galactomyces ferment filtrate. Additionally, the 97% concentration also decreased sebum production by 65% and decreased the number of acne lesions by 9%. The antioxidant properties also assist in decreasing skin irritation and the signs of aging.

For benefits from galactomyces ferment filtration, it’s best to choose a first treatment essence because they contain the highest concentrations of galactomyces. First treatment essence is applied right after cleansing the skin, before everything else in a skincare routine. The directions are to pour some essence onto a cotton pad or onto clean hands and gently pat it onto the skin. Some people have also put the first essence into a small spray bottle and mist it onto their faces to ensure every part of the face benefits from the first essence while also making the product last longer.

References:

• Lee, M., Kim, H.-S., Cho, A., Jeon, S. H., Lee, N. K., Ahn, K. J., & An, I. S. (n.d.). The effects of essence-formed cosmetic ingredients containing the galactomyces ferment filtrate on skin improvements in keratinization, pores, sebum excretion, brightness and acne. Kor J Aesthet Cosmetol. Retrieved March 10, 2022, from http://www.e-ajbc.org/journal/view.php?number=697

• What is galactomyces ferment filtrate and how can it improve your skin? Korean Skincare Tips. (2020, January 24). Retrieved March 10, 2022, from https://koreanskincaretips.com/galactomyces-ferment-filtrate/

• Genesis Rivas Jul 15, 2021 @ 2:19 pm. (n.d.). The truth about how skincare ingredients get absorbed into the skin. HelloGiggles. Retrieved March 10, 2022, from https://hellogiggles.com/beauty/skin/does-skincare-get-into-bloodstream/

Hydrocolloid

Hydrocolloid has always been used for wound healing in the medical community. Now, patches with hydrocolloid, or “pimple patches”, have become one of the hottest products for acne. The main rule of acne is “don’t pick”, but it’s hard to resist the temptation every time and it only leads to an open wound with leaking pus, oil, and even blood. This is where pimple patches come in as a spot treatment for each pimple.

Pimple patches are small stickers that work by absorbing any drainage from the pimple and covering the wound to prevent trauma to the site, like picking. The hydrocolloid will gently absorb the excess fluids, like pus and oil, from the pimple and allow it to heal in a somewhat sterile, moist environment and keeps out bacteria, gunk, and dirty fingers that are prone to picking at the site. Just stick the patch on the clean, dry skin, and oozy pimple, then leave overnight. Peel it off in the morning, wash the skin, and slap on another patch if it’s oozy. By absorbing the toxins trapped under the skin, protecting the zit from external bacteria, sunlight, or picking, the patches can accelerate healing. Scars can be minimized with the protection from the finger picking at the pimples as well. There are also hydrocolloid bandages that cover more surface area for multiple pimples.

A lot of pimple patches now will have a layer of acne-treating ingredient or little needle-like darks that will push the ingredients into the skin before dissolving. Salicylic acid and benzoyl peroxide are always good ingredients to look for in the patches. Most patches are small and translucent, providing some coverage of the pimple and treating those problem spots discreetly. With the popularity of pimple patches, there are now ones that are like stickers with stars, happy faces, etc. It’s an attempt to reprogram the negative connotation around breakouts by giving a gold star and focus on acceptance rather than hiding. Confidence destigmatizes acne and wearing a patch can instill confidence in an unapologetic attitude.

Hydrocolloids, however, do not work on cystic zits. Patches don’t work on closed or seep lesions, or even blackheads and white heads. They only work on the traditional oozy, pus-filled bumps that are active and cannot prevent acne from coming. Cystic zits are under-the-skin inflammations that can only be quickly treated with cortisone shots from a dermatologist. A lot of patients with cystic acne can also get superficial acne, which can be treated with pimple patches, so there is a place for people with deeper acne to use patches. It’s still better to see the dermatologist to help with deeper acne.

There are no risks using those patches, unless it’s an allergic reaction to an active ingredient or the adhesive could cause irritation. They won't get rid of un-popped pimple overnight, but they can help treat zits, calm inflammation, speed up healing, and provide the much needed protection from constantly picking at the pimples. Patches are definitely worth a try to get rid of those pus-filled pimples that are popped or about to pop.

References:

1. Chloe Metzger Deputy Beauty Director Chloe Metzger is the deputy beauty director at Cosmopolitan. (2021, September 16). Okay, what's the deal with these pimple patches? Cosmopolitan. Retrieved March 9, 2022, from https://www.cosmopolitan.com/style-beauty/beauty/a28971674/do-hydrocolloid-patches-bandages-work/

2. Do pimple patches actually work? Cleveland Clinic. (2021, October 26). Retrieved March 9, 2022, from https://health.clevelandclinic.org/how-do-pimple-patches-work/ Akers, W. (2020, February 29).

3. Do those pimple stickers actually work? Healthline. Retrieved March 9, 2022, from https://www.healthline.com/health-news/do-those-pimple-stickers-actually-work

Collagen Supplementation for Aging Skin

Dietary supplementation has become more popular in recent years in the United States. Under the Dietary Supplement Health and Education Act (DSHEA) supplements are recognized as foods as opposed to drugs. This means that supplements are not regulated the same way that drugs are. Drugs undergo rigorous testing before they are approved by the FDA to be marketed for consumer use. The manufacturers of supplements are not required to show studies on the efficacy, safety or quality before marketing their supplement products. This may become dangerous because it leaves the task of evaluating each supplement to the consumer who may not have the time or knowledge to do so.

Collagen has become an increasingly popular ingredient in dietary supplements marketed to enhance beauty. Collagen is a protein that is used to make connective tissue and is a major component of bone, skin, muscles, tendons, and cartilage. Our bodies gradually make less collagen as we age, causing the skin to become thinner and drier. Collagen production also decreases due to excess sun exposure, smoking, excess alcohol, and lack of sleep and exercise (Bolke 2019). Collagen supplements are marketed as being able to improve hair, skin, and nails to give a more youthful look.

The efficacy of Elasten, a collagen-containing drink, was studied in a randomized, placebo-controlled trial. Elasten is a high coverage collagen complex which contains short chain oligopeptides composed of 5 to 8, 9 to 15, and 16 to 26 amino acids. These amino acid sequences are those found in human skin collagen proteins. The study population included 72 females ages 35 years or more who were randomized to receive either Elasten or placebo for 12 weeks. Efficacy was evaluated based on skin hydration, skin elasticity, depth of wrinkles, and skin density. At 12 weeks, mean skin hydration was significantly increased in the Elasten group by 28.0% (p<0.0001). Skin elasticity was increased in the Elasten group by 0.81 AU and in placebo by 0.75 AU (p<0.0004). The depth of wrinkles decreased to 118 µm in the Elasten group and to 151.4 µm in the placebo group. At 12 weeks the skin density of the Elasten group increased by 24.8% (p<0.0001) and 6.8% (p<0.0004) in the placebo group. None of the patients in the Elasten group reported any adverse effects (Bolke 2019). This study is promising for the use of collagen to lessen the effects of aging on skin but it is important to note that different collagen supplements contain different types and amounts of collagen so this study does not apply to all collagen products.

While taking collagen supplements can help to decrease signs of aging in the skin, it is worth it to also recognize prevention strategies. We can help to prevent the loss of collagen by limiting sun exposure (or wear sunscreen), getting 7-9 hours of sleep per night, avoid smoking cigarettes, managing stress, and exercising regularly (Collagen 2022).

References:

Bolke L, Schlippe G, Gerß J, Voss W. A Collagen Supplement Improves Skin Hydration, Elasticity, Roughness, and Density: Results of a Randomized, Placebo-Controlled, Blind Study. Nutrients. 2019;11(10):2494. Published 2019 Oct 17. doi:10.3390/nu11102494

Collagen. The Nutrition Source. https://www.hsph.harvard.edu/nutritionsource/collagen/. Published March 2, 2022. Accessed March 7, 2022.